This Cote des Blancs estate in Avize to insiders is often spoken of in the same breath as Champagne pop star Anzelme Selosse. But everything in the Rue Pasteur is more discreet and low-key. The family like it that way, preferring to concentrate on making beautiful Champagnes in a subtle style to suit every occasion and most pockets. This is reasonably priced compared with those of Anselme, their more famous neighbor. When last in France Amy and Jeff caught up with Olivier Bonville, a gentle, warm, and thoughtful fellow, Olivier is a trained enologist, but he does not let his technological know-how get in the way of the family’s vision of what great Champagne should be.
Distinguished expression of 100% Chardonnay Fermented in stainless steel, has a natural richness in tune with precision and tension that makes this instantly recognizable with that Champagne zing, the emphasis here is on floral aromas and pure fruitiness, yet in the mouth the peerless quality of the grapes and their origins show though in a delicacy that fronts a subtle richness. Great class for a modest outlay. Really good producer, we will be releasing this among several other Champagnes into Australia in near future.near future.
Leroy Romanee St Vivant 2000 Grand Cru Pinot Noir - from Biodynamic vineyard
When it comes to sheer aromatic complexity, perfume, elegance and grace all wrapped in unmatched finesse, few wines can equal genuinely great Romanee St Vivant. It is without a doubt the rare wine lover who is not completely transfixed by the heady perfume of sexy and kaleidoscopic red and black fruit. Reserved, Soft, floral, feminine, what you would call 'Sous-Bois' (forest floor/earthy). This is relatively powerful but remains discreet and finishes with classic Romanee St Vivant seductiveness. I would say this wine has more of a mass appeal with its silky tannin structure and is more approachable although the Richbourg is the better wine.
Leroy Richebourg 1992 - from Biodynamic vineyard
Richebourg - Even the name sounds magisterial, full, rich and grandiose. At its finest, Richebourg is one of the best red wines in Burgundy; some might say the world. The character of Richebourg is one of extremes: it is sublimely perfumed yet powerful, muscular, rich and dense, with superb intensity. More vibrant, more expressive, an individualistic wine and actually tastes younger and more alive than the 2000 St Vivant. Everything one could want from burgundy - lots of Plum, layers upon layers of complexity on the palate from primary fruit flavors, dark cherries, and cinnamon, soft mouthfeel, luscious, rich and powerful yet delicate. Great length, perfumed, classic example of fantastic Richebourg - that wonderful balance of power, concentration and elegance.
Author: David W Burch | Date: 3/2/2012 | Category: Wine tasting